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Up a Creek. . . .With a Paddle

by Capt. Greg Bowdish

This article originally appeared in Outdoor Florida magazine

I have always noticed that with the first cold front anglers immediately divide themselves into two groups - the majority that fish open water and search for deeper holes using their GPS and fish finder, and those odd few who head deep into the mangroves by whatever means available to find those hidden lakes and backcountry flats that provide a secret winter retreat to many of our Florida game fish.

If you have been reluctant to even consider heading into the backcountry in the wintertime due to the draft of your boat or because you just didn't think there were any fish up those trickling mangrove creeks, than you may be surprised at what you are missing.

First of all, you have to be willing to consider that there is a vast world that is unreachable to the casual angler. It is a world deep in the mangroves where root-lined grottos and tiny lakes are hidden from the prying eyes of mapmakers and satellites by dense tree cover and clouds of mosquitoes. It is a world that, in the wintertime, is populated by many of those snook, reds, and tarpon that are missing from your fish finder screen. You may have even taken your boat up some of these creeks one adventurous summer day when the water was higher, but I'll bet the only bites you got were from those mosquitoes. These backcountry areas are not as hospitable to fish in the summertime due to extremely high water temperatures and the lack of oxygen that accompanies very warm water. That right there should clue you in to their value to fish in the wintertime. In case you missed it, I'll repeat it . . .warm water.

The color of the bottom in the mangroves is usually a dark brown. The light coming through the mangrove leaves is basically hitting a giant solar cell, which is insulated by the dense mangrove forest. During the heat of the day, fish come out of deeper holes into the shallow, dark-bottomed backcountry lakes to lie out in the sun and warm up. These are tough fish to approach and feed and will challenge your skills as an angler as much as any Keys permit or Henry's Fork brown trout, but if you like this hardcore type of sight fishing and the hunting aspects involved, you will be in paradise. There is however one last major caveat you will face in pursuing these fish: getting there!

Most flats boats drafts too much water to even consider this unique style of winter fishing, and in the past, I would always leave the boat behind and continue on foot when things got too shallow or too narrow. Fortunately, I live in an area where the backcountry creeks and lakes are usually wade-able, but hiking into a mangrove jungle leaving behind the safety of your boat in calf-deep water armed only a fly rod is not always the smartest move. Enter the kayak . . .

Sit on top sea kayaks have become quite the rage lately, and for me it was the perfect solution to my wintertime fishing frustrations. I could cover a lot of water, carry lots of gear, and most importantly, get into the tiniest of creeks and the shallowest of lakes. It has opened up a vast new fishery to me and allowed me access to places that I may be the first to explore and fish. At least until I see a beer can or Calusa Indian relic, I will go on enjoying this assumption. Of course a canoe will work well to, but when that mangrove branch is hanging low or you have a lot of water to cover simply to get to the creek, a kayak will suit you much better.

Now that you have the appropriate boat, lets find a creek for you to explore. The best way to go about this is to travel slowly down mangrove shorelines at a high outgoing tide. You are looking for creeks that have a heavy flow of water coming out indicating a large body of water up in the mangroves. At this point, I usually check a chart, satellite, or aerial photo to get some indication of where the creek leads. Some lakes will be visible on these media, some will not. You are also looking to see if there are any canals or larger bodies of water on the other side of the mangroves. Some of these creeks are passageways to other areas and are how saltwater fish get into suburban canals and golf course lakes. Needles to say, these are great fishing spots.

Another thing that will clue you in to what is located deep in the bushes is the temperature of the water. If I am in my boat I will always watch the temp gauge on my fish finder as a pass a small creek mouth, but in my kayak it is much easier - I simply stick my foot in the water. Warm current can only mean one of two things. A: you just found a hidden backcountry lake, or B: you have stumbled on to the latrine of the legendary Skunk ape. Now that you have the fear of the sasquatch in you, you will be more quiet and cautious as you begin your exploration of the creek and this is critical if you plan to do any fishing in there.

While paddling up the better fishing creeks, you should expect to spook a lot of fish out from under the boat and the size of some of these fish may completely shock you. A large snook sitting in an eight-inch deep and three foot wide creek has everything he needs - current, warmth, safety, and a conveyor belt of food coming his way. Obviously it is impossible to rationally target such a fish in tight quarters, but seeing them tells you that you are in the right place. Paddle on.

If the creek does begin to widen or you are fortunate enough to encounter a small lake, it is very important that you don't go paddling on in like you own the place. Stop for a while and observe. You may see snook popping, you may see the fin of a laid up fish or even a small tarpon roll. You may see only mullet, but keep watching and scrutinizing the area until a game fish gives itself away. It will happen, you just have to be patient. Many small mangrove lakes are so shallow that you will see fish laying all around out in the open. If this is the case, keep in mind that these are some of the toughest fish you will ever encounter and the lure or fly you are using will be critical to your success. Think small and realistic and be very aware that any disturbance in such a small body of water will be felt by anything residing there. Anything that lands softly and resembles a crab, shrimp, or small baitfish is worth a try. One more thing - if you are fly fishing, watch your back cast.

What makes this 4X4 type of fishing so enjoyable is the seclusion and solitude, the challenges of both the environment and the fish, and the intricate, seldom-seen beauty of the mangrove backcountry. If you do decide to head up a creek with a paddle, I implore you to be respectful of the delicacy of the world that you are visiting. I've written this article so that these sacred places will be appreciated, not debased. So if you come across a beer can or some trash in a backcountry creek please take it out with you. Let me continue to believe that I am the only one who has ever been there.


Mangrove creeks like this one are common in Southwest, FL.


Fairly large fish like this snook make for some interesting battles in such tight cover


Be careful paddling beneath low hanging mangroves - there is no telling who will drop in!


Troy Youngfliesch of Telluride Outside hooked this baby tarpon in a dense, backcountry waterway


Some backountry creeks lead to small lakes - and prized gamefish like this redfish


The author with a baby tarpon caught deep in a mangrove passage

One of the best sources for information on fly fishing Southwest Florida is Angler's Outlet in Cape Coral.

       

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"Up a Creek. . . .With a Paddle" Copyright 2005 by Greg Bowdish. May not be reproduced or redistributed without author's permission. This article first appeared in the April 2005 issue of
Outdoor Florida Magazine. Republished with permission.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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