Step 2

Wrap your thread from the hook eye into the bend of the hook. I usually wrap a quarter way into the bend and make a bump of thread. I then "figure 8" wrap the dumbbell rattle behind the hook bend so that it sits on this thread bump and the center portion of the rattle sits slightly above the shank of the hook when viewed from the side. Now, advance the thread 1/4" up the hook shank and cover all thread wraps with thread cement. Let dry..

Step 3

Pull the mono through the rabbit strip so that the burned end rests against the rabbit fur and the length of the mono is sitting against the skin side. Tie this in as a unit on top of the hook, fur side down. If there is a curve in the mono make sure it is bent up. Do not trim the mono! Figure 8 your thread over both rabbit strip and rattle eyes a few wraps. The tail should be curved up like a skunk's tail and this is critical to getting the fly to perform correctly in the water.

Step 4

Tie in flash material on top of rabbit strip by bending it around the excess mono and pulling it back towards the tail in equal lengths. The flash should just reach the tip of the Zonker strip. Cover thread with marabou as shown. Cut excess mono and advance thread to eye of hook. Whip finish. Cut two pieces of thin craft foam using your thumb as a template. One should be slightly shorter than the other so that it will fit beneath the hook shank. Using Zap A Gap or Krazy Glue, sandwich the foam pieces on either side of the hook shank with the smaller on the bottom. Make sure the marabou spreads out across the back of the foam. The hook eye should just peek out from the foam pieces. That's it!!!

The material list and tying istructions for the spun deer hair version of the Rattlesnake Fly are basically the same with the exception that we are substituting deer hair for the foam. I am, however, including complete tying instructions below, and you can refer to both sets of tying recipes regardless of which version of the fly you are tying. Again, color should be up to the fish you are fishing for. The peacock bass at right had a penchant for pink.

Step 1

Wrap thread on hook shank past the bend in the hook. Make a small bump with thread and figure 8 on a dumbell fly rattle against the bump. The rattle should stick up only slightly higher than the hook shank.

Step 2

Cut a piece of Magnum Rabbit Strip approximately 1 1/2 to 2 times the length of the shank of the hook. Pierce a small hole in the hide, slide in a piece of 40# mono the length of the rabbit strip, and melt a small ball in the end on the fur side.

Step 3

Tie in the rabbit tail piece and mono fur side down on the back of the hook. The mono ball should be hidden in the fur, but slightly away from the pierced hole. The other end of the mono should be tied in with the rabbit strip. Note: if there is a curve in the mono, it should be turned in the "up" position.

Step 4

After the rabbit tail is tied in securely, make a few figure 8 wraps over the rabbit, mono, and rattle eyes. Coat everything (including the mono against the rabbit hide) with head cement and allow to dry.

Step 5

Add flash material as desired along the top of the rabbit tail. Here I am using a combination of flashabou and glow-in-the-dark flashabou.

Step 6

Tie in a piece of blood quill marabou to cover the base of the tail and rattle.

Step 7

Spin a clump of deer belly hair in front of the marabou.

Step 8

Continue to spin clumps of deer belly hair until you get to the eye of the hook and whip finish the thread. I have found the fly to be more effective if the hair is not packed too tightly. If packed correctly, the fly should barely float or ride just under the surface when retrieved

Step 9

A double-edged razor blade is the easiest way to trim the Rattlesnake's shape. Run the razorblade close along the top and bottom of the hook shank being very careful not to nick any threads. Try to make the fly as flat as possible. With scissors, cut the triangle shape as shown in the top view. The width of the fly will determine its castability and action in the water and I will frequently re-trim the head while fishing to get the desired results.

Fishing the Rattlesnake Fly

The Rattlesnake was designed to be a fly rod version of the Mirrolure Top Dog, Zara Spook, and other dog-walking, conventional lures. Although it looks a lot different, it is to be fished in the same scenerios with a smooth, consistant retrieve giving the desired "walk-the-dog" action. The flies head should wobble slighty as it tries to climb on top of the water. This is what makes the rattle work and gives the rabbit fur that enticing, "snakey" look.

The fly is also excellent fished on a full sinking line for wintertime freshwater bass. The floating head keeps it up above obstructions and it still has the same action as above only in a head down angle. When using a sinking line, the Ratllesnake should be fished much slower.

I have received a lot of correspondance about the Rattlesnake Fly over the years from fly anglers all over. The following e-mail accompanied the two photos of the hybrid, deer hair-foam Rattlesnake fly at left.

Hi Captain Greg,

I have recently tied the rattlesnake for use on Toledo Bend bass. It is amazing how well it has worked. I have been getting somewhat larger fish and plenty of strikes. I made the original as shown on your website. I also tied one with a bit of foam up front. They both seem to work about the same in terms of drawing strikes. The foam fly of course does not get waterlogged and works longer. I still use a section of hair between the foam and the rabbit. On occasion I get to fish for reds in the Louisiana marsh. I enjoy your website and will visit often. One of these days I may head to Florida.

Thanks Bill Heugel